Where Art Thou? Kochi Muziris Biennale Venues

Where Art Thou? Kochi Muziris Biennale Venues

  • 29 Sep 2016
  • Sunaya
  • Features

The Kochi Muziris Biennale means that all the talk is about art. We want to look at the spaces that showcase these creatures of the artist’s imagination. Biennale Joint Secretary Bonny Thomas talks to us about the venues.

At the moment Kochi is bursting with the anticipation of the Biennale. Artists have taken residence at the varied venues and there are pots of paint, paper, clay, laterite and such bringing to life color, form and feeling. The venues are as important as the artwork, given birth by the colorful history of the region. Nature and time has carved Fort Kochi into the tourist hub that it is today. It was in the year 1314 that the great flood swept the port of Muziris away into history. The floods shifted the natural harbor from Muziri to Kochi. “The birth of a child and death of the mother” says Bonny Thomas. There were no road systems in the region and hence water was the main mode of transport. Spices from the Western Ghats were taken in boats down the Periyar River and eventually to the Vembanad Lake.

Being well connected through a network of waterways that we still see today, Kochi flourished. Its popularity resulted in a fight to own the land by the Portuguese, Dutch and the British. Stories of explorers, businessmen, soldiers, slaves, poets, lovers etc are hidden in the walls of Fort Kochi. The spirit of colonial architecture is captured in the sweeping colonnades, wide verandahs and vast halls. While the regional flavors are abundant in the laterite walls, wooden windows and intricate detailing. Worldwide,the Biennale strives to preserve the cultural heritage of the city it’s named for. The Kochi Muziris Biennale holds onto the past through its historically important venues that have stood the test of time.

ASPINWALL HOUSE

This 19th century building was owned by Oughterson, Campbell and Company which dealt in ship building and timber trade. Built on the banks of the ‘kayal’, the building is one of the largest heritage properties here. In 1846, Aspinwall was bought by the Scott brothers who were joined by John H Aspinwall. The new addition to the company expanded the trade to include spices and other agro products. Aspinwall was a popular Municipal Chairman and brought a lot of change to the area. On his death, the company passed many hands to later end up in despair. It is amazing to know that one of the most important trade centers in the area is now the largest art center for the Biennale as sixty percent of the works are displayed here.

PEPPER HOUSE

The Pepper House is situated in Kalvatty, where Kochi developed as a port and spice center. Spices were traded here by various ethnicities including Chinese and Arabs. This go-down is a testament to the fact that architecture is both aesthetic and functional. The Pepper House is situated between the river and the road. The building is formed like a ‘naalukettu.’ It has two big gates (kavaadam) on the eastern and western sides.

The boats would dock on the river side on the east of the building from where the raw spices would be delivered. Then it was processed and dried in the central yard. Sacks of fragrant spices were then stored and moved out onto the road to be taken to the market.

DAVID HALL

To the west of the Parade Ground is the David Hall. In the 1660s the Dutch were the most important traders in the area after the Portuguese. The Dutch had a good rapport with the Jews who were the middlemen in the trading. The Hall belonged to a Jew, David Koder and is now owned by a premium hotel company.

The three foot wide laterite walls uphold the massive tiled roof that sweeps down supported by wooden trusses. Huge windows bring in light and ventilation to the rectangular building. David Hall has been renovated many times and is now a vibrant contemporary art gallery with an attached café.

KASHI

This little café is a very popular hangout in Fort Kochi. Showcasing various contemporary artists throughout the year, it shows that great architecture exists in small spaces. The café opens inward into a little courtyard that brings in light and air.

The ambience is Indian contemporary with red-oxide seating that run along the walls. The space is not strictly linear but turns into a comfortable corner where light filters through green plants. The scale of Kashi inspires discussions in a comfortable environment.

DURBAR HALL

The 180 year old building used to be where the King of Kochi held his parliament. The area was under the royal family and was surrounded by the temple, a small palace, courts, secretariat and other royal offices. After World War II, the building was used to keep battle tankers and hence the road came to be known as Tankshed Palace road.

Though the building was built by the King, it is heavily influenced by European architecture. The sweeping wooden staircase and the detailed ceilings have seen many uses over the ages. After being used as a government office, the building was converted into the Pareekshith Thampuran museum. The Lalitha Kala Academy then handed it over to the Biennale and today it is a gallery of international standards with a well stocked art library.

Text : Maria John   

Photos : Suneesh Suresh

This article is adapted from the FWDLife Dec 2014 issue.

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